Keratolytics for manicure: types, methods of application, brands

The area of ​​skin covering the nail base that protects the nail plate from physical damage is called the cuticle. This skin frames the nail, its condition and appearance significantly affect the overall appearance of the nails. Therefore, cuticle care is an integral part of any manicure.

Without removing and tidying up this skin area, even the most beautiful and bright manicure will not look complete. Simple mechanical trimming, which previously was the only way to care for the cuticle and often led to damage and inflammation of the skin, is a thing of the past. Nowadays, the cosmetology industry uses all sorts of means that allow the removal of skin adjacent to the nail without resorting to physical cutting.

Why do you need a keratolytic in manicure?

In the popular techniques of classic edged, hardware, and European unedged manicure, softening and removal of the cuticle is required at different stages. This task is accomplished by special means – keratolytics. They are also called removers or softeners.

The principle of action of the funds can be traced in the name itself. The word keratolytic is derived from two parts: “keratin”, which means protein, and “lysis” - the process of dissolution.

The products soften and dissolve keratin, which is a structural part of the skin, hair and nails, making it easier for the specialist to process the cuticle and remove pterygium around the nail. The skin of the cuticle and pterygium, softened or turned into a homogeneous “mush,” can be easily removed using a pusher, an orange stick, or cut off with nail scissors or tongs.

The keratolytic significantly reduces the time required for hand treatment by a master in the salon or at home, ensuring a well-groomed aesthetic appearance of the skin around the nails after the procedure.

In different manicure techniques, the use of removers or softeners may differ in the order of the stage of action on the skin, as well as in composition.

Cuticle Care Rules - A Guide to Products and Procedures

Rating of the best cuticle removers

This list includes products based on popularity and customer reviews.

Domix Green Professional Cuticle Remover

Release form: gel

Manufacturer: Russia

Volume: 70 ml

Approximate price: 290 – 310 rubles

A high-quality remover of liquid consistency with an applicator in the shape of a narrowed spout. The advantages include a short exposure time (1.5 minutes), caring almond oil in the composition and slower cuticle growth with regular use. The disadvantages are that the consistency is too liquid and the appearance of a yellowish tint to the nail if you overuse the product.

ADVANTAGES:

• economical consumption
• perfectly softens cuticles
• no smell
• large volume
• contains almond oil

FLAWS

• consistency too thin

Domix Green Professional Cuticle Remover

Express cuticle remover Nail Therapy Professional Eveline Cosmetics

Release form: oil

Manufacturer: Poland

Volume: 12 ml

Approximate price: 180 – 200 rubles

An excellent nourishing and moisturizing product with avocado oil and vitamins A, E, group B in the composition. The drug is conveniently applied with an applicator, does not spread, and is effective within 30 seconds. This remover is best used as a supporting agent; it is worth noting its cumulative effect. The disadvantage is that it consumes quickly and also that it cannot cope with dense cuticles.

ADVANTAGES:

• quickly softens cuticles without soaking your hands in a bath
• skin doesn't dry out
• the cuticle is “cleaned off” completely
• The product simplifies the manicure procedure

FLAWS

• small volume

Express cuticle remover Nail Therapy Professional Eveline Cosmetics

Sally Hansen Instant Cuticle Remover

Release form: gel

Manufacturer: USA

Volume: 29.5 ml

Approximate price: 490 – 500 rubles

Professional remover from a world-famous brand specializing in the development of nail care products. The composition, in addition to the alkaline component, contains aloe, green tea and chamomile extracts. Thanks to its balanced formula, it has a calming and anti-inflammatory effect. This remover is economical in consumption. Exposure time – 15 seconds. But this product may act too aggressively on the nail.

ADVANTAGES:

• has no smell
• does not damage the nail
• effectively and gently removes cuticles
• slows down its growth
• Contains chamomile and aloe extract

FLAWS

• not detected

Sally Hansen Cuticle Quick Removal Gel

Cuticle Eliminator Be Natural cuticle softener and remover

Release form: gel

Manufacturer: USA

Volume: 15 ml

Approximate price: 220 – 250 rubles

Can be used for both combined manicure or pedicure, and for unedged manicure. The high concentration of the active substance allows you to soften the cuticle in 45 seconds. The product does not dry out, does not irritate the skin around the nail, is used sparingly, and is also not aggressive.

ADVANTAGES:

• convenient bottle
• quickly softens cuticles
• applied very sparingly
• gives nails a well-groomed look
• the procedure is painless

FLAWS

• not detected

Cuticle Eliminator Be Natural cuticle softener and remover

Express cuticle remover NailLOOK

Release form: gel

Manufacturer: France

Volume: 13 ml

Approximate price: 150 – 170 rubles

A good remover with a thick consistency and a brush-shaped applicator, it does not smudge and is easy to apply, it works within 30 seconds. This product softens rough cuticles and has a cumulative effect. Suitable for maintaining the aesthetic appearance of nails. The main disadvantage is that it is quickly absorbed and requires additional application, which is not entirely economical.

ADVANTAGES:

• has no smell
• comfortable brush
• does its job well
• doesn't drain

FLAWS

• wasteful expense

Express cuticle remover NailLOOK

Gel for removing cuticles Cuticle Remorver Aravia

Release form: gel

Manufacturer: Russia

Volume: 100 ml

Approximate price: 450 – 500 rubles

This remover for professional use gently exfoliates dead skin particles, and also has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect thanks to chamomile extract and panthenol. With regular use, it reduces the growth of the cuticle, it becomes more flexible. The advantages of this product are its large volume and fast action (less than a minute). One of the disadvantages is the inconvenient dispenser.

ADVANTAGES:

• good price/quality ratio
• large volume
• pleasant light aroma
• acts very gently, does not burn or pinch
• good result
• contains chamomile extract

FLAWS

• uncomfortable nose

Cuticle Remover ARAVIA Professional

Cuticle remover Good bye Cuticles Limoni

Release form: gel

Manufacturer: France

Volume: 7 ml

Approximate price: 180 – 220 rubles

A product with a well-functioning composition, effective in 15 seconds. The cuticle softens and becomes elastic, making it easier to remove. The remover does not cause redness or irritation. The gel should be applied with a brush applicator.

ADVANTAGES:

• anti-inflammatory effect
• comfortable brush
• does not damage the nail plate
• acts softly and efficiently

FLAWS

• not detected

Cuticle remover Good bye Cuticles Limoni

As can be seen from the description, all of the above tools correspond to their characteristics and cope with the task to a greater or lesser extent. The price range is significant and depends on the volume and popularity of the brand.

The question of choosing the ideal product is not only a professionally selected composition, but also an individual reaction to the components.

The Russian product Aravia can claim first place for its large volume, relatively low price and effective action. This remover not only efficiently removes cuticles, but also has a regenerating and softening effect.

Types of keratolytics used in manicure

To choose the optimal product, the specialist needs to understand the principle of the effect of keratolytics on the skin. Softening of keratin is carried out by alkalis, acids, urea or urea. They are the main structural components of removers. In a professional cosmetics store for manicure, you can choose the following options for keratolytics:

• Alkaline;
• Acid;
• Based on urea or carbamide.

1. Alkaline keratolytic was one of the first options to hit the market. It is the most aggressive in its effects on the skin and requires the use of a neutralizer after use. This is necessary in order to return the Ph level to its original level, preventing further destruction of keratin.
2. Acidic keratolytics for manicure have replaced alkaline ones as they are softer and more gentle in their effects.
3. The third generation is urea-based softeners. They do not destroy keratin, but only nourish it and soften it, lifting dead skin particles and facilitating their further removal.

The division into acid and alkaline keratolytics is carried out according to the Ph level. Indicators from 5.5 to 7 Ph are considered neutral. Everything below is acid, and everything above is alkali.

The higher or lower the Ph value is from neutral on the scale, the higher or lower the acidic or alkaline properties of the softener.

Alkaline removers for manicure

The most intense compositions. Usually the name of a keratolytic with alkali contains the prefix “Express” or “intensive”.

They dissolve the keratin of the cuticle and pterygium in 2-3 minutes, and it can be easily removed from the surface of the nail. Alkaline removers come complete with a neutralizer or must be purchased additionally. You can take a universal neutralizer that is suitable for all types of keratolytics based on alkalis and acids.

The main active components of alkaline keratolytic are soda ash, caustic potash and EDTA. In addition to them, there are additives that are designed to moisturize and nourish dry skin - oils, herbal extracts, vitamins and minerals.

ORLY CUTIQUE CUTICLE AND STAIN REMOVER

Potassium hydroxide contained in the product actively affects the keratinized layer of the cuticle and quickly softens it. The composition includes sesame oil, which has an antibacterial and softening effect on the skin. The remover has a thick consistency and does not spread over the nail, as a result of which it is used more economically. If you use the remover regularly, it has a whitening effect on your nails.

Pros:

1. Economical consumption;
2. Whitens nails;
3. Effective result;
4. Has antibacterial properties.

Minuses:

1. The composition contains alkali, so you cannot overexpose the product;
2. Over time, the remover will thicken in the bottle.

Acid cuticle softeners

Acid keratolytics have a mild, caring effect. Produced on the basis of fruit, lactic or salicylic acids.

They can combine several options in one composition. It is worth noting that lactic acid has a whitening effect.

The higher the Ph value, the milder the acid softener. Typically the working range of these products is Ph 2-4. The exposure time of the acid agent is 2-3 minutes. The instructions must be strictly followed. It is recommended to use the product once every 7-10 days to keep your hands in well-groomed condition.

What is cuticle

The skin around the nail plate is called the cuticle.
Its main purpose is to protect the nail bed from injury and pathogenic bacteria and viruses.

Not all girls know how to trim cuticles at home correctly. To achieve a beautiful manicure, you need to trim or push back the cuticles to give your nails an oval shape. Traditionally, the cuticle is trimmed with special scissors with thin blades. Now there is a safer way - to soften the skin with a special gel, and then move it to the side.

Advantages of unedged manicure:

• In a salon environment, there is less risk of infection from insufficiently sterilized instruments.
• How to remove cuticles at home? Doing your own manicure will become easier and faster with the help of gel.
• Regular practice will make the cuticle less hard and stiff.
• There is no risk of damage or injury.

European and American salons have often completely moved away from traditional cuticle removal.

This will make your manicure safe and quick, and special cuticle products will help provide additional nutrition and strengthen your nails.

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What is cuticle remover gel

Girls who often get manicures in beauty salons are faced with the concept of gel remover.

This is a professional product that allows you to soften or dissolve the cuticle completely.

Most often you can find acidic and alkaline options. Before you choose, there are a few important things you need to know.

The nuances of purchasing cuticle gel:

• Professional gels may contain alkalis. They are suitable for home use only if you have the necessary skills to work with such ingredients.
• Gels based on fruit acids are less aggressive and easier to use. Perfect for removing cuticles yourself.
• It is desirable that the composition contains additional caring substances and vitamin complexes. This will help reduce the harmful effects on the nail plate, helping to strengthen it.
• The chosen product should not have any strong odors. If acetone is clearly felt, it is not safe to buy such a gel. High-quality products have more pleasant aromas.
• If you use a certain brand of manicure products, it is better to find a suitable product from the same series. This will allow you to select the compositions as comfortably as possible to eliminate the risk of rejection.

Frequent use of such products will help make the cuticle skin less rigid and your manicure neat and quick.

To achieve good results, it is enough to use the gel as directed at least once a week.

Most products are perfect for creating an aesthetic pedicure.

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How to use

It is advisable to become familiar with the nuances of using cuticle gel at the stage of choosing a product. As a rule, each manufacturer provides detailed instructions for use for their product.

This will help you navigate the important nuances, and the basic rules are given in the information below.

Usage algorithm:

1. Wash your hands well with soap.
2. Dry the skin and nail plate.
3. Using the applicator, apply a small amount of product to the skin around the nail. If the gel gets on the plate, it is advisable to carefully remove it with a cotton swab.
4. Wait the time specified by the manufacturer. This is from one to five minutes. Do not overexpose the gel to avoid skin damage.
5. Using an orange tree stick, you must carefully remove the remaining cuticle along with the gel.
6. If you have a manicure machine with a soft attachment, you can complete the manicure by polishing the cuticle area.
7. Remains of the gel must be removed with a degreaser.
8. You can immediately perform a manicure according to the planned scheme, or you can simply rub in cosmetic oil for nails and cuticles, promoting nutrition and strengthening.

Learning to use a gel remover is not difficult.

It can be used to prepare nails for extensions, and also simply as an aid for home manicure.

There are many worthy options for suitable products on sale, an overview of which is presented below.

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Urea keratolytics

Urea keratolytics are considered the safest modern means for removing cuticles.

They have a strong softening and moisturizing effect on the skin. Can be used for diabetic conditions, vascular problems, after chemotherapy. Urea or urea is suitable for those clients who have contraindications for the use of acid and alkaline softeners. It has a slight analgesic effect, reduces irritation, soothes the skin and accelerates exfoliation of the epidermis.

Urea-based keratolytics do not disturb the Ph balance, so their use does not require neutralizers.

Which cuticle remover to choose?

Buying a remover today is not a problem. Many cosmetic brands offer them. When choosing a cuticle remover for yourself, don’t forget to pay attention to the composition. The best active ingredient is fruit acids. Their marking on the tube is AHA. It is desirable that it contains softening and caring components. Do not buy products for professional use. They are intended for salon care and manicurists. Consider your cuticle type. If it is dry and hard, buy a targeted remover “for dry and sensitive skin.”

The beauty of a woman’s hands is the first thing the opposite sex pays attention to. Well-groomed nails and a beautiful manicure create a pleasant impression on others. Remember: no polish, even the most expensive and exclusive, will look good on sloppy nails with overgrown cuticles. Now you can get rid of this problem in a few minutes. Use a special cuticle remover and your hands will always remain beautiful.

Alternative mineral and oil removers

Mineral softeners do not contain aggressive components that destroy protein and irritate the skin.

In the list of ingredients you can see calcium, magnesium, zinc in combination with sea or mineral water. Such compositions are suitable not for removal, but for softening the cuticle for the purpose of further cutting with scissors or forceps.

Oil removers also do not remove rough skin and pterygium, but intensively soften and care for the epidermis. Apply for 10-15 minutes, then the skin is pushed back with a pusher or an orange stick, and cut off with scissors or cutters.

These products are alternative and are used for well-groomed hands when performing maintenance procedures at home.

Characteristics of European manicure

European manicure differs from edged manicure in that it does not involve the use of cutting tools or manicure apparatus.

The cuticle is not cut with scissors or cut with a milling cutter; it is moved back and removed using special means.

Benefits of European manicure

• Since cutting instruments are not used, the possibility of infection is practically reduced to a minimum .

European manicure is not traumatic for the cuticle

• Safe for use at home.
• Painless , does not cause discomfort.
• The nail root is not damaged , so its growth rate remains the same.
• Slows down cuticle growth , which allows you to do manicures much less frequently.
• Ideal for people with thin and delicate skin , as well as with closely spaced capillaries.

Disadvantages of European manicure

• Cannot be used if nails are in poor condition. Suitable for regular use only .


An unedged manicure will only be effective if done regularly.

• still need tweezers or scissors to remove burrs.
• The ideal result is achieved only after 5-6 procedures .
• Cannot be used on rough and thick cuticles .
• You may be allergic to cuticle removers.
• Not suitable for extended nails.

To check how your skin reacts to the remover, apply it to your wrist for a while and see the result.

Advantages and disadvantages of keratolytics

As with any professional cosmetics, a high concentration of active ingredients leads to pros and cons when used. They also have their own indications and contraindications for use.

Benefits of keratolytics for manicure:

• Fast exposure time 1-3 minutes;
• Effective removal or softening of the cuticle;
• Painless effect;
• Slowing cuticle growth;
• Versatility: can be used in both manicure and pedicure;
• Cost-effective, especially when using liquid formulas;
• Can be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding;
• Long-term hydration in the case of urea keratolytics;
• The ability to select economical means in each type of keratolytics.

Disadvantages and contraindications:

• The possibility of an allergic reaction to the components of the composition;
• The inability to use removers in the presence of even the smallest injuries and cracks on the surface of the skin;
• It is necessary to additionally use a neutralizer for alkaline and acid keratolytics;
• If used incorrectly and not according to instructions, chemical burns of varying degrees may occur.

Using a special pencil to remove cuticles

The composition of a special pencil for removing cuticles includes fruit acids or alkalis, oils, and vitamins. In essence, this is a convenient form of remover.

This pencil is easy to carry with you in your makeup bag and take on travel. Its main advantage is convenient use, safety and high efficiency.

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This modern cosmetic product has the appearance of a felt-tip pen. Manufacturers often make it with a removable rod inside for the purpose of replacing it with a new rod if necessary.

The elastic tip makes it easy to distribute the composition onto the cuticle. The cosmetic product is dosed onto the tip of the pencil.

The end of the cap usually has a beveled shape. This allows you to quickly push back the cuticle without using additional tools.

Popular remover brands

Softening agents can be universal, for manicure and pedicure, or used only when treating hands. This is usually indicated on the label and dictated by the intensity of the components in the composition. The skin of the hands is thinner and softer, and the feet require more active drugs.

The most popular brands of removers:

• Sagitta: acid, alkaline and urea options to choose from;
• Urea based Inki;
• Biogel from Derma Pharms, UK
• Salu;
• Be Natural;
• Gewol;
• Severina.

Types of removers

Based on their composition, removers are divided into:

1. Acidic - break down keratinized areas of the epithelium using fruit, lactic or other acids.
2. Alkaline - used for treating rough areas. The exposure time depends on the concentration of active substances.
3. Mineral - used to maintain previously treated cuticle in good condition. The product has a delicate effect.
4. Oil remover not only softens, but also nourishes and moisturizes the skin, making your hands look well-groomed.

Removers are not as harmless as they may seem. They contain very aggressive substances. Initially, removers were used to remove acrylic nails and gel polishes. During the work, their softening properties were discovered. Therefore, cosmetologists began to use them for manicures. This is how the first removers appeared, which had a more gentle composition for the cuticle. By the way, the consistency of such products may be different. Manufacturers produce removers in the form of liquids, gels and even creams.

How to do a manicure with keratolytic: three techniques

All three types of keratolytics are used in manicure - acid, alkaline and urea.

The most popular are acidic options. They quickly loosen the cuticle and facilitate its complete removal.

Urea removers should be selected taking into account the percentage of urea. Up to 10% is a universal remedy, 10-20% is professional preparations for salon specialists, 20-30% urea is an aggressive composition used to perform pedicures on difficult and neglected feet.

Alkaline keratolytics in their pure form are used less often on the hands, as they have an aggressive composition and greatly dry out the skin. Most often, masters give preference to removers that combine acids and alkalis at the same time. This composition allows you to quickly remove the cuticle, while having a gentle effect and caring for the skin.

Keratolytics are used in three manicure techniques: classic combined, hardware combined and European unedged in dry and wet versions. Let's look at each technique step by step.

Natural cuticle removers. How does essential oil remove and strengthen cuticles?

You can take care of the nail skin and remove its dead part using folk remedies.

1. Grapefruit peel. Citrus fruits contain a lot of useful substances, especially in the zest. Essential oils and organic acids contained in the white part of the grapefruit skin are necessary for caring for the cuticle. It is enough to take a small piece of peel, apply the white part to the skin near the nail and massage it so that your fingers look well-groomed and healthy.
2. Cream with calendula. A natural antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and vitaminizing agent, calendula, in the form of a decoction of dried flowers, is added to a regular hand and nail care cream. The flock is prepared from 0.5 cups of flowers per 0.5 liters of water, filtered. Add 10 drops of decoction to a portion of cream
3. Apricot kernels. 4-5 pcs. dried seeds are placed in a plastic bag, covered with a towel and crushed with a hammer. Small fragments are mixed with a rich hand cream and used to exfoliate the keratinized part of the cuticle.

But the most effective oils for caring for cuticles, nails and hand skin are:

• castor
• almond
• burdock
• sprouted wheat
• jojoba
• apricot kernels

Vegetable, cosmetic and essential oils are very useful for the cuticle.
To care for the skin of your nails, just heat a small amount of oil in a water bath, drop 1 drop onto the skin near the nail and rub it in thoroughly. An even better effect will be if you enrich these oils with vitamins A and E, essential oils (2 drops per 1 tablespoon of base oil).

Classic edged manicure using a combination technique with remover

Can be performed using dry or wet technique with soaking in water.

Execution steps:

• The coating is removed from the nails, the length and shape are adjusted;
• Using a pusher or an orange stick, gently push back the skin along the perimeter of the nail;
• A keratolytic agent is applied to the cuticle or pterygium area using a brush or applicator nozzle;
• The product is kept for 1-3 minutes according to the instructions;
• For mild softeners, you can additionally soak your hands in warm water immediately after applying the product. Time ratio: wait 1-2 minutes after application, plus 2-3 minutes of immersion in water (the example is relevant for Biogel from Derma Pharms);
• The product is washed off with water using a wet technique;
• When dry processing, the cuticle is wiped with micellar water or plain water using a cotton pad, and then a neutralizer is applied for alkaline and acidic versions of the drug;
• Using a pusher or an orange stick, the remaining softened skin is removed and lifted. You can help yourself with a damp cloth;
• The open and raised cuticle is cut with scissors or cuticle nippers;
• The nail is treated with a dehydrator and primer;
• Coating is being applied;
• The skin around the nail is treated with a caring gel or oil.

Step-by-step instructions for using a cuticle remover pencil

How to use this pencil:

• Prepare everything necessary for the procedure. You will need: a pencil, napkins, an orange stick or a pusher.
• Prepare your hands. They must be clean and dry.
• Using the tip of a pencil, distribute the product onto the cuticles of all fingers.
• After the composition has expired, it is necessary to push back the cuticle on all fingers using a cap, a special stick or a pusher.
• Rinse off the product under running water.
• Apply nourishing cream to your hands.

Additional application of oil to the cuticle is usually not required. It has already been added to the pencil.

When traveling, you can get by with just a pencil and wet wipes. In this case, the composition of the product in the pencil should be gentle. Because it is not always possible to wash your hands well when traveling. Then it makes sense to wipe your hands with wet wipes after finishing the procedure.

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Hardware manicure using combi technique with remover

This combination of techniques is not very popular, but is sometimes used by masters. The device is used to remove coating or extended nails, as well as to lift and open the cuticle. After this, a remover or keratolytic agent comes into effect in combination with scissors or nippers.

Subsequence:

• Apply remover to the raised cuticle and wait for the time recommended according to the instructions;
• Using a damp cloth, remove part of the softened skin and pterygium, remove the remaining keratolytic;
• Use scissors to cut the cuticle;
• Apply Nail Prep degreasing and drying agent and decorative coating;
• We treat the skin with oil or care composition.

Combined manicure - what is it, stages of implementation